Saturday, September 28, 2013

Saturday Tip: Ferrets and Recliners





Ferrets love to hide and tunnel in recliners. If you have a recliner, it's a good idea to store in in a non-ferret area like a basement or room. When the lever is moved, or someone sits down, the ferret inside could get squashed. Ouch! In fact, it is the leading ferret death cause in the whole world. 


This unlucky ferret was injured when he crawled into a recliner and his owner (not knowing the ferret was in the recliner)closed it back up, smashing his little front legs! 


PLEASE keep recliners away from ferrets or check before you sit down! 
Your ferret could be in danger, so be sure to keep him away from crawling into a recliner.



Friday, September 27, 2013

Mickey's New Page!

Please check out www.sleepinghamsterzzz.blogspot.com for serious Mickey cuteness. 
I will put the link in the Mickey tab as well. 
Sorry I went to all that trouble to give him a page! 

You are welcome, Anonymous, you were the one who suggested to make one.

It's all cuteness anyways!

Friday, September 20, 2013

DailyBunny.com

Please check out DailyBunny.com, folks. This blog spotlights plenty of adoptable house buns with an opportunity to be great pets! Please also check out all our rabbit care posts before you bring a new rabbit into to your home.


Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Pen or Cage Options for Your Pet House Rabbit -It's Rabbit Week!

Recently I discussed the location of your rabbit's cage, but I have gotten so MANY requests for some ideas and guidelines for creating the perfect "rabbitat." 

Cages = a bad choice?
If you go the cage route, you need something that goes with the rabbit's breed and age. A cage with multiple ramps makes for a faulty cage if you are using it for a large or old rabbit, whereas a smaller spry, young rabbit may fit better with that option. I do not recommend cages very much, only because they are so expensive and so small. All cages have wires on the bottom, and ones that don't have any are "starter kits." Not only that, the cages are harder to clean.

Some Prefer Pens
 I love puppy pens because there is easier clean-up(sweep out and DONE) and the rabbit gets more access to your daily life. Another reason I love pens because you can generally conform them to particular shapes creatively, and the one I use was cheaper. The pen can be left open for free-range rabbits; a smaller pen can be used solely for a safe hideaway for a rabbit, or it can be put out for the rabbit to stay in at night. I am a rabbit-pen-user at heart. They are comfortable, spacious, the rabbit has more access to your life, inexpensive, perfect for bunn-proofing, and easy to clean. Pens tend to give better ventilation and even if your rabbit is shy, you can find some creative ways to have a proper in-pen hut or shelter for the rabbit to retreat to. 

Before starting....
Remember that although I do not prefer cages, some environments and households can find a way to use cages while still keeping the rabbit happy. Check both options first before deciding cages are a bad idea. Overall, cage, pen, WHATEVER, you always should purchase the best option for your rabbit, not for you. I know people don't like pens because they are big and don't look pretty, but (along with showing off your love for rabbits) it doesn't matter if the housing choice doesn't look good, it's the safety and comfort for the rabbit(and other household members) that counts!

Not a Rodent!
Even people who gravitate towards rabbits positively, still think rabbits are rodents. They are lagamorphs, meaning "hopping creature". Cage-whise, rabbits should only have cages just for them. Not ferrets, not rats, NOT chinchillas.... RABBITS! Even the most energetic rabbit cannot climb in the way a rodent could, so why would you give them a cage with ramps and ledges that only rodents can climb?

Pawse to consider- Rabbit's feet are JUST fur!
Another reason I don't like cages is because of the wire bottoms. Both rabbits are recovering from minor sore hocks(due to past cage-living history) and even in the pens, they have 24/7 resting pads and towels for comfort. They have no pads on the feet. Just thick hair! It's very important to consider a rabbit's feet when choosing a cage.

Hutches - No point!

No house rabbit owner I have met keeps their rabbits in a hutch. Hutches are MEANT to keep rabbits protected from harsh weather and predators, which they have no exposure to inside. Most hutches are off the ground, which I would find a problem when I open the pens to let them play and explore to their extent. Plus, all hutches are covered except for the mesh doors. This may provide protection for their outdoor counterparts, but all rabbits should be exposed and open to people walking and talking o rdin the home, which these types of habitats lack incredibly. PLUS, these expensive hutches are generally small and cause urine burn. All hutch residing rabbits are shy, and whenever the door is opened they will run to the back of the hutch, unexcited and frightened. 

A final word
Whenever choosing a rabbitat, remember to consider the rabbit's needs and desires before choosing one on impulse because it looks "fancy" or "cool." The rabbits house is the most important part of your rabbit purchases. Remember to do research and think like a rabbit for housing options.



Continue the entire week with Rabbit Week: a fun critter post extravaganza!






Tuesday, September 3, 2013

New Updates to The Blog

I updated some parts of the blog, including a more extensive blog list, and all that. Please check out our new poll and support some blogs from the blog list. Also be sure to suggest via the Suggestion Box and PLEASE subscribe! We are trying to get more than 50 subscribers and so far we have 22 people! Also, to support Critter Corner, please take time to check out the cool features at the blog and comment below. Thank you Cute Overload for making the blog a bigger success and letting me recommend their calendar. Hurry and get your Cute Overload 2014 calender this Fall! It makes a great gift for birthdays or Christmas.

Sunday, September 1, 2013

Introducing A New Member of Our Family: Minnie!

Yesterday the Internet did not really work, but yesterday we adopted Minnie, a sweet beagle/rat terrier mix puppy, so I wanted to get this done today. 
Puppy??
 Yes, we adopted a puppy. She was at an event called Let Me Hold your Paw and she was fostered for 1 month. She is 3 mos old now and is absolutely ADORABLE! She was saved from a kill shelter and her description said she is very cuddly and sweet - which is 100% true! Minnie's name is because of the Mickey-Mouse-shaped spot on her back. (Which she came with, we didn't pick it.)
Rat terriers are great family dogs out of all the terriers there are out there. She is a beagle mix, so her face will look different, she will be slightly bigger, her coloring will be beagle-ish and her ears will possibly stay flopped. So far she has been exciting to play with and very loveable as well. We love her so much! 

Puppy food

Potty Time!(She has already learned to "go" in a certain area!)


Emerson holds the leash.

Rolling in the grass

Getting used to outside noises

Rope toy!

(This is her favorite toy so far)

Play time

Minnie is adorable!

(:

Cuteness!

Nylabone Puppy Play pack

Teething chews

Her crate she uses at night




Info About Rat Terriers



Description
The Rat Terrier is a well-muscled dog with a deep chest, strong shoulders, solid neck and powerful legs. Its body is compact but meaty. The ears can be upright or tipped and are carried erect when the dog is alert. It can be born with a short or full-length tail, each being left in its natural state or docked at two days of age. The coat colors include pearls, sables, chocolates, red and white, tri-spotted, solid red, black and tan, blue and white and red brindle. Breeders concerned with working dogs are not as fussy about the specifics of the looks.
Temperament
The Rat Terrier is an intelligent, alert and loving dog. It is very inquisitive and lively. This affectionate dog makes an excellent companion for those who will enjoy an energetic dog. They are good with children, especially if they are raised with them from puppyhood. They are, for the most part, friendly with strangers. Rat Terriers make good watchdogs. These dogs are quick, very playful and are not yappers. The temperament of these dogs is pure terrier. The lively, feisty, fearless nature can be found in the best of terriers. They are eager to please and respond and pick training up faster than most dogs. The Rat Terrier is a very well-mannered, well-rounded dog. It is easy to train, very eager to learn and to please its owner. They love to go with you and to do what you do. They are also very good swimmers, not bashful or afraid and have no problem with the water. They make good farm dogs as well as excellent family dogs for pets and companionship. This hardy dog is used for hunting expeditions as well as terrier work. 



Height, Weight
The Rat Terrier comes in three different sizes.
Standard:   Height 14 - 23 inches (35½ - 58½ cm)
Standard:   Weight 12 - 35 pounds (5½ - 16 kg)
Mid-sized:  Height  8 - 14 inches (20 - 35½ cm)
Mid-sized:  Weight 6 - 8 pounds (3 - 3½ kg)
Toy: Height  8 inches (20 cm)
Toy: Weight 4 - 6 pounds (2 - 3 kg)
Health Problems
-
Living Conditions
Rat Terriers will do okay in an apartment so long as they get at least 20-30 minutes of exercise a day. They are fairly active indoors and should have at least a small to medium-sized yard. Rat Terriers love to dig, and they can get out of a fenced yard relatively easily. Provided they have the proper protection, they are able to spend a good amount of time outdoors. They love to be inside the house and outside to play.
Exercise
The Rat Terrier needs a good amount of exercise. This breed needs to be taken on a daily long walk or jog. It should have at least 20-30 minutes a day, but would enjoy much more. The breed enjoys challenging games and outdoor romps.
Life Expectancy
About 15-18 years
Grooming
The Rat Terrier is easy to groom. An occasional combing and brushing to remove dead hair is all it needs.
Origin
Named by the perceptive Teddy Roosevelt, the Rat Terrier was developed in Great Britain originally from the Smooth Fox Terrier and the Manchester Terrierin 1820. It was brought to the USA in the 1890s. At that time they were all their original color of black and tan. Life Magazine showed President Roosevelt with three black and tan Rat Terriers. American breeders crossed them again with theSmooth Fox Terrier as well as the Beagle and Whippet. The Beagle increased bulk, trailing and hunting ability, along with the red color. The Whippet contributed the speed and agility and probably the blue and brindle colors. The smallest variety was derived from the Smooth Fox Terrier and Chihuahua. The Rat Terrier proved to be one of the best in the rat-baiting pits. One Rat Terrier is reported to have killed over 2,501 rats in a span of only seven hours in a rat infested barn. The Rat Terrier is a hard-working farm hand, able to rid an infested barn of vermin with no problem.
Group
Terrier
Recognition
APRI, UKC, CKC, NKC, UKCI, NRTR, ACR, RTCI, RTBA, ACR, DRA, NAPR, AKC/FSS 
APRI = America's Pet Registry, Inc.
UKC = United Kennel Club
CKC = Continental Kennel Club
NKC = National Kennel Club
UKCI = Universal Kennel Club International
NRTR = National Rat Terrier Registry
ACR =  American Canine Registry
RTCI = Rat Terrier Club International
RTBA = Rat Terrier Breeders Association
ACR = American Canine Registry

DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.
NAPR = North American Purebred Registry, Inc.AKC/FSS = American Kennel Club Foundation Stock Service® Program